What did that mezcal taste like, crafted with a Filipino recipe by Indigenous hands under Spanish rule?
As early as the 17th century, we know of flavorings that made this drink special: distillers mixed it with animals, fruits, and botanicals, calling them pechugas—a name tied to special celebrations. Others infused mezcal with herbs or insects for medicinal or esoteric purposes, or simply to drink on special occasions. What does a mezcal infused with a pig’s leg, a scorpion, or maguey worms taste like?
Mezcales made with clay stills or cooled through car radiators are now part of the cultural landscape of this spirit, though their origins are varied. For example, the car radiator was adapted from the moonshines of U.S. Prohibition, while clay stills arose out of necessity, replacing copper stills when they were destroyed or unavailable—cheaper, easier to obtain, and easier to transport. What does a mezcal distilled with the help of a car radiator taste like? How long does a clay still last? Which came first in Mexico—clay or wooden distillation?
Since its creation in New Spain at the end of the 16th century, mezcal has passed through different stages and historical tastes. At first, it was used to quench the thirst of workers who built the first cities and cathedrals, who labored in mines and fields for the comfort of the conquerors. Later, it became the central drink of communities to celebrate both the living and the dead.
From the very beginning, mezcal had to share the table with coconut wine, its early rival, with which it shared markets and cups among workers from Oaxaca (Antioquía) to Guanajuato (Santa Fe de Guanajuato), and, of course, in Mexico City (Méjico-Tenochtitlan). Mezcal had to be transported in barrels and animal bladders—throwing to the ground the naïve idea that mezcal was never barreled or aged—and this surely gave it a special flavor, its historic taste, in those times.
During the 19th and early 20th centuries, in order to dodge taxes, mezcal was sold and transported with low alcohol content. It wasn’t until the 1980s that, in an effort to compete with whiskies in the North American market, merchants began demanding mezcales with higher alcohol content—something that was already a tradition in many villages. It is worth noting that transporting and storing mezcal in damajuanas (large glass containers) was already common in many parts of Mexico. What does a mezcal taste like after being buried in clay or stored in glass for a decade?
When we try to understand mezcal, we must also understand that production methods, agave types, water sources, and the skills of its makers are all very different. Agave existed long before humans, and depending on its geographic origin and biological characteristics, it contains different properties that result in distinct flavors. Along with techniques, these factors greatly influence the flavors that emerge in the making of mezcales. What do a mezcal from Guerrero and one from San Luis Potosí have in common, a Cupreata and a Tobalá maguey? Are they from the same family? What is the relationship between tequila and mezcal? Why is mezcal made with Jabalí agave so difficult to produce? Why does mezcal made from Montana agave in Tamaulipas yield so little sugar?
Since the mezcal “boom” (from 1980 to the present), new proposals have emerged that have been well received in the markets where they are offered. These Artisanal Mezcales (with a capital “M”), with alcohol contents ranging from 38% to 55%, have achieved major penetration, with millions of liters sold in dozens of countries—primarily the U.S. and Mexico. Another type of mezcal (with a lowercase “m”), now found in the homes of collectors and connoisseurs, are the so-called Agave Distillates, which generally never fall below 45% and, in several cases, surpass 70% ABV. What does a 70% mezcal taste like? What about a 38% one? Why is the best-selling mezcal at 40%? What is the real difference between Mezcal and mezcal?
Now, well into the second half of the twenties in this new century, the new generation has become very different in the way they drink—and this has impacted what they select to drink and where they get it. Those who watch the markets and play with numbers say they drink less, but they drink better; they go out less, and drink more at home… What mezcal will this new group of drinkers demand?
Disclaimer
This text was originally written in Spanish by the author. With the assistance of OpenAI’s ChatGPT, it has been carefully interpreted and translated into English, seeking to preserve its original tone, style, and cultural nuances.
MEZCALEANDO 