Because there’s a new generation of producers that isn’t looking to agave… and isn’t looking to Europe for cues either.
They’re building something different.
Today I want to talk about a new wave of Mexican spirits that have nothing to do with agave, and don’t rely on the usual narrative of centuries-old tradition.
They’re all high-level, and some are, honestly, almost unique in the North American market—quietly reinforcing the idea that Mexican spirits can stand on their own in terms of quality, without needing to come from agave.
I’m talking specifically about a group of young, talented producers based in Mexico City, working under Taller Astrafilia—a micro-distillery that has built a diverse portfolio of products. Their goal isn’t to compete with European canon, but to reinterpret it through Mexico’s biodiversity.
Mexico City, by the way, is no longer just one of the most vibrant and visited cities in the world. It’s also becoming a serious hub for well-crafted spirits, aligned with what a new generation of consumers is looking for: people who drink less, but drink better.
Let’s start with their gins.
Their line is called Granicera—a name given to a figure associated with rain and the control of hail in different regions of Mexico—and it’s clearly positioned in the ultra-premium segment.
These are products that invite you to drink them neat.
Not because they can’t be mixed, but because they have the structure, complexity, and quality to stand on their own. And yes, the price reflects that level—often above many well-known references in the category.
There are four profiles: Citrus, Spiced, Floral, and Herbal.
They all start from an unusual base: heirloom corn alcohol from Chiapas, macerated for weeks with more than 30 botanicals—many tied to Mexican cuisine and herbal traditions—and then redistilled in copper stills in small batches.
These are not “flavored gins.” They are profiles—in other words, a different reading of juniper in a new geographic context:
• Citrus: bright, but layered with herbal and spiced notes that move it away from the obvious
• Spiced: deeper, with a warm core that feels closer to cuisine than classic cocktail structure
• Floral: aromatic and delicate, with a more perfumed structure
• Herbal: the closest to the botanical root—greener, more direct
Now, onto the liqueurs.
Probably the most representative part of their portfolio in terms of identity.
The Maleza line works from the same base as the gins—heirloom corn alcohol—but with much longer macerations, up to four months, and a logic that leans more toward traditional cooking than pastry. These are pillars of Mexican cuisine translated into liquid form.
• Peanut: toasted seed, cacao, corn, and spice—familiar, table-driven flavors
• Cempasúchil: floral with citrus and spiced accents, tied to one of the country’s most symbolic plants
• Pepita: green and herbal, with hoja santa, epazote, and avocado leaf—liquid cuisine, no shortcuts
• Achiote: citrus and spice, with warmth and a subtle chili note—firmly rooted in the southeast
• Bosque: inspired by the aromas of Mexico City, with cypress, juniper, and green notes
• Tejate: likely the most complex, built around cacao, rosita, pixtle, and vanilla—a direct interpretation of Oaxaca
While a creative chef could push them into pastry territory, at their core they’re not cloying.
They’re balanced in sweetness and built to integrate, not dominate.
They don’t take over a cocktail—they move with it.
And speaking of cocktails, you can’t ignore their bitters.
The Maleza Bitters line follows the same philosophy as the gins, but in a concentrated format: extended extraction of Mexican botanicals in corn alcohol, designed as tools for a modern, informed cocktail approach rooted in Mexican flavors.
What stands out is not just their profile—herbs, flowers, spices, citrus—but their proximity to the gins mentioned earlier.
The gins build the base.
The liqueurs expand the spectrum.
The bitters refine the detail.
Everything comes from the same place: Mexican plants and botanicals, handled with intention and a clear effort to reinterpret them.
Mexico isn’t just redefining what it produces. It’s finding new ways to reach the consumer—with quality, imagination, and talent.
Part of that presence in the North American market also depends on importers who understand these kinds of projects; in this case, Backalley Imports has played a key role in placing these products in the right context, supported by a carefully curated portfolio.
Originally written in Spanish; translated into English with digital assistance.
MEZCALEANDO 